There are number of roads towards this village but only one that enters and exits as this is an end stop village which probably accounts for its wonderful tranquility. The peacefulness of the area has attracted many authors and artists to choose to live here over the years.

The village itself started life as a Saxon earthwork fort, one of five between Rye and Chichester that had been ordered by Alfred the Great as protection against the marauding Danish Vikings. The village position was ideal in that it overlooked the river Arun that was used by the invaders. The earthwork fortress some of which can be seen to the present day lies behind the village pub.

Steps (now known as Jacob’s ladder) led down to the river that was to become very useful in later eras for the smugglers. They would land their booty on the riverbank and carry it to the top where the old fort had been sited and on to the conveniently situated 17th century George & Dragon pub, now the only one in the village.

The church of St. Mary the Virgin is across the road from the pub. Perish the thought that the local vicar would have imbibed in illicit goods – never the less a small glass of Brandy with no questions asked would probably have gone down well I suspect.

There is some credence to the assertion that there was a Roman temple or mansion of some kind on the site of the church. Fragments of a Roman Pavement were found during grave digging. However the church undoubtedly does date back to Saxon times and is mentioned in the Domesday Book. Despite considerable extensions undertaken in the 19th century when the Rev Robert Foster was vicar, a considerable amount that remains is of Norman construction; one of the outstanding features is the Norman Arch dating from 1140.The glass in the West window is said to be the work of Charles Kempe to the memory of Rev Foster. There is also list of vicars starting from the 12th century.

The village is well known for the number of eminent authors who lived here not least of all Mervyn Peak who wrote Gormenghast. In addition to writing he was a renowned illustrator for books including Alice in Wonderland, Bleak House and Treasure Island. Such was the individuality and quality of his work that some are now exhibited among the National Portrait Gallery exhibits.

James Hurdis the parish vicar was author of The Village Curate in 1793; and yet another was the Rev Tickner-Edwardes.  He had always wanted to be an author from childhood and wrote a number of romantic novels. When the First World War broke out he applied to join the army as a fighting soldier but was told that at the age of 50 he was too old. However he did join the Royal Army Medical Corps as a private, and left after the war having worked his way through the ranks to become a Captain particularly involved in entomology – the study of insects.

Following his demobilisation he decided to enter the priesthood and subsequently became vicar of Burpham. It was during his time there that another of his books was to achieve fame - Tansy 1921. It was made into a silent film on location in the village and was highly successful, starring some of the most popular stars of the era. Both Mervyn Peak and Tickner–Edwardes are buried in the churchyard.

Many buildings in the village have interesting histories and tales not least of all the Country House Hotel that dates back to the 17th century, having been many things including a Squire’s Mansion and a Vicarage. During the Squire’s residence, one of the household, a young girl, went for a walk over the downs never to be seen again. Suspicions centred on the Squire but nothing was ever found, however many tales of her ghost continue. The present owners of the hotel told me that one of the staff refuses to go into a particular room because she saw “a lady dressed in crinoline with no legs”. The proprietor pointed out that crinoline dresses reach down to the ankles, however this did not dissuade the staff member of her opinion.

The hotel underwent substantial alterations in the 19th century when the Rev Robert Foster first used it as a vicarage, and there are some interesting, records of what he found and did during that time. After him the Rev Tickner-Edwards lived there, an event that is recorded on, a Blue Plaque, and where he continued to write his books. One of which is the Lore of the Honey Bee 1908 that is still a classic for beekeepers to the present day. The present owners have done a superb job in refurbishing the hotel, which is well worth a visit if only to have a coffee when visiting the village. Another house with more up to date literary connections is a near neighbour of the village pub. At one time the residence of John Cowper Powis a renowned writer and lecturer; It is today home to the crime writer Simon Brett. Apart from being a great mystery writer he also holds the prestigious position of Chairman of the Detection Club and follows some legendary authors who held the same position - Agatha Christie- Dorothy L Sayers and G.K.Chesterton to name only a few.

Cricket has been played here for over 120 years having been started by the Peppering family whose eponymous farm was mentioned in the Domesday Book. Such was the success and quality of their game that many teams came to play. The ground is on the site of the Old Saxon fort where the smugglers used to cross to the pub after landing their booty from the Arun. One can now watch the match, be entranced by a wonderful view over Arundel Castle  and have the (essential) convenience of a pub at hand for refreshment. The club has been host to many great cricketers including W.G. Grace; another visiting Oxford player was asked what he would do after university and the laconic reply was “ oh probably return to Africa” - his name? – Cecil Rhodes (Rhodesia). Ruskin the poet, and  great friend of the Peppering family played here frequently.

There is an interesting tale told at the 17th century George & Dragon  pub Ada West the last of the ‘West’ landlords after four generations. She had an unusual habit of blowing the froth off each pint she pulled. Unsociable perhaps, but not unknown. For those sceptics among you unacquainted with such matters will be amazed to know that in the early 20th century The Ancient Order of Froth Blowers (AOFB) a charitable enterprise was formed to support the good works of Sir Alfred Fripp (Military and Royal Surgeon), for the poor children of London. The idea originated by a grateful soldier patient was to become one of the most popular in the country. He thought other soldiers might support the idea; its success was such that the membership quickly spread throughout the world and grew to exceed 800,000 in number, raising many millions of pounds. It faded out after the death of Sir Alfred and Bert Temple the original patient died in 1930/1.

One last and less savoury character who lived at 105 Wepham (the adjoining village) was convicted along with another villain, of mail robbery. The other felon got away but Jack Upperton was remanded but refused to name his associate. After trial at East Grinstead he was sentenced to hang in chains in a prominent place on Burpham Down where his carcass rotted for about two years. A pole and plaque inscribed with the date J.U. 1774 marks the site where his body was hung, to this day. Actually the date is incorrect as he was hanged in 1771.  

Burpham village is now part of the Duke of Norfolk’s estate having been purchased by him in 1815.