Burwash

Two sets of two family names from very different eras dominate the history of Burwash. In the 14th century King Edward I created a Baronetcy for Robert de Bergersh, of which the village formed part of the de Bergersh estate. It is generally presumed that this is how the village name was derived.  Later  Edward 111 (the Black Prince) grateful for the assistance given during the Battle of Poitiers, rewarded Bartholomew de Bergersh with the second Baronetcy.

 Sir John Pelham was given permission to use the symbol of the French king’s sword buckle as his family crest, for his heroism during the same battle. Interestingly though there is no historical evidence to support that Sir John was in attendance when the buckle is said to have been offered by the French king in surrender; reports indicate that it was Sir Denis de Morebeque who accepted surrender on behalf of the Prince. However whatever the true facts, the buckle is fully recognised as the Pelham family crest and can be seen displayed on houses, churches and monuments all around Sussex and none more prominently than on the face of the font at St. Bartholomew’s church Burwash. One might ask if Bartholomew the second Baron was the reason for the church dedication?

Coming more up to date, the 20th century was to see two new residents, each of whom had made substantial impacts in their own professional fields. Both came to the village to settle in 1902 and were to become lifetime friends. One was the acclaimed British poet Rudyard Kipling and the other, Sir Henry Weymiss Fielden.

The latter had an incredible military profession both in the British army and The Confederate Army USA. In addition, as a renowned naturalist, botanist, ornithologist and long time Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society  he was invited to join the Arctic Exploration of1875.

The Fielden family have a long association with Burwash and owned one of its most outstanding 17th.century High Street properties ( Rampyndene) that John Leyland Fielden bought in 1875. Sir Henry Fielden (not Henry Wemiss) still lives in the village, but the trustees sold Rampyndene in 1949.

An amusing story of a battle of wills between the Rector of the village and another Fielden(Leyland) is worth recording. It stems from the 1604 canon law that decreed the “Ten Commandments be set up at the East end of every church where the people may best see and read the same”.Leyland Fielden insisted this should be done but the Rector an equally strong willed character, said there was no place the tablets could be put where the congregation could  to read them and saw no point therefore in their being displayed A highly acrimonious confrontation ensued resulting in an extraordinary situation when Mrs Eliza Fielden died. The Rector refused to bury her in the churchyard but her furious husband decided that she would be buried in the church at some future time. His answer was to have a mausoleum built in the garden and her embalmed body placed in it. There is only a very short distance between house and church and with the two men being very influential in the village, the affair must have caused great interest to residents. When the Rector died in 1888 Eliza Fielden was at last buried in the churchyard and the mausoleum removed. In 1902 Wemiss Fielden ( Kipling’s friend) inherited Rampyndene.

Although the home of the Fieldens was undoubtedly the most striking house in the village, it is neither the oldest nor the most renowned. Batemans, home to Rudyard Kipling and now a National Trust property is by far the main reason tourists come to visit the village.

While living in Batemans, Kipling made many additions and improvements not least of all to the mill. He felt that by damming the river Dudwell and constructing new sluices to improve water flows the mill would not only mill corn but would generate electricity for the house. Kipling had an intense interest in engineering and in all modern inventions. A friend - Sir William Willocks (who designed and built the low Aswan Dam and was about to embark on other major works on the Euphrates river) was called upon to help.

With his other great interest, mechanics, it was only natural he would want a car. Surprisingly though he didn’t drive but enjoyed being driven about by his chauffer in his “Amelia” the name he gave his brand new Lanchester car.

Kipling was quick to notice the mechanical superiority of Frederick Lanchester and his eponymous car company with its “vibrationless” movement so far ahead of any other car. However like many other very advanced inventions this car was ahead of its time and it was many years before great companies such as Daimler adopted Lanchester’s inventions. Despite Lanchester's brillaince as an engineer he lacked financial expertise and backing  and the company went down. However he carried on with various technological advances and to this day is recognised as one of greatest engineers and the father of aerodynamics that led to the development of modern aircraft.

The main street of the village provides a wonderful  view with its  variety of 15th to 18th century buildings, and a delightful lack of any street lamps, telephone wires or pylons. The south side is lined with pollarded trees leading up to the War Memorial between the Bell Inn and St. Bartholomews church. Originally named the Five Bells after the number of bells in the church reverted to the singular after a number of church bells were added.

  Before describing the church there are two interesting little stories I read in John Barkshire’s excellent book on Burwash – titled "From Domesday to Millenium".

It appears that in the past whenever royalty passed through the village it was customary for the bells to be rung and the ringers to be awarded a glass of beer for their efforts; on the return journey they would ring again. However when one royal went through without leaving the award they flatly refused to ring when he came back through. A good example of the adage “Sussex villagers will not be druv” perhaps?

The other relates to the War Memorial and the light at the top that was once an oil light that had to be raised by pulley. It is still lit to the present day on the anniversary of the death of each service person whose name is recorded on the memorial.

St. Bartholomews is an 11th century building that has a number of interesting features worth noting including  a 14th century cast iron grave slab and a lovely Millenium window. The font gives a clear declaration of the village association with the Pelham family by a prominently carved Pelham Buckle. In the entrance is a 16th century Breeches bible, so called because of a bible passage from Genesis 111   “ they sewed fig leaves together and made themselves Breeches”.

A sad event took place in the church in 1909 when the Rector had a heart attack while celebrating Holy Communion and died at the altar.

The village now has three pubs- The Bell- The Rose & Crowne and The Bear. Previously there had been five including he Swan Inn and The Admiral Vernon. The latter according to Mr Barkhshire’s book had a lovely service for its patrons. If they bought some eggs and bacon in the shop next door, the landlord would cook them for breakfast over the open fire. Sadly it no longer exists.

The only thing I haven’t mentioned is the fantastic wealden scenery all around the village so when you visit do take a wander down one of the roads off the high street North or South – you will be entranced.